Absolutely killer day yesterday on the four-O! So many familiar faces and new enthusiastic locals, perfect blue-bird skies and flat Shitty water. Gotta love it.
So your asking what I did yesterday? I was sick and unexpected, at the least. It was sweet and long awaited, as well. It was the move of my dreams; The Shaka.
I've been longing for this move, and yesterday it had my mind so confused, that I just dropped everything else to focus 100 percent. Hard work and hard crashing on the flat-water Shove-its paid off in the long line; I got really good and started to plane out of most of em, going directly into a Flaka afterwards. The few tries I did on the chop had me going high and pretty much in control, landing backwards but leaning back too much. I felt that it might be close, but never did I realize that it actually was that way, more than I thought.
I went towards BigKalle (chairman of the Surf Club) I thought: "Hey, I might as well try one time on that chop over there, it looks kinda nice." Little did I know that I would be the perfect try, carving fast and hard, sheeting the sail in properly, leaning forwards and had a perfect flight on the sail. On my descent the board had spun 180 and the sail was still in my hands with me leaning over it, like a Flaka, totally depowered. Of course I got psyched out of my mind and started yelling, but nevertheless I managed to claim the move. The feeling was indescribable, the perfect stoke, so awesome. I sailed around for half an hour in total ecstasy, unable to do anything else than to smile. Finally. I got it.
At this moment I could once and for all put my finger on what drives me and motivates me to windsurf, the realization of what it's all about. There is nothing else in life that even compares to that feeling. The basic feeling of true undeniable happiness. Some people chase the perfect score, the perfect time, the perfect wave or the perfect performance. I chase the perfect feeling.